Glycolic Acid Skincare: How to Use It and Why Sunscreen Matters

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), and the FDA names it as one of the most common AHAs in cosmetics. To use a glycolic acid product, follow its directions, patch test first, introduce it gradually and use sunscreen. The FDA recommends sunscreen, protective clothing and limited sun exposure while you use an AHA product and for a week afterward.

This guide covers the two DirectDermaCare products that list glycolic acid in their ingredients: Glycolic Acid Serum and Night Renewal Creme. Their directions differ, and they are not meant to be used in the same evening.

What glycolic acid is

The FDA describes AHAs as ingredients often used in cosmetic and drug products applied to the skin, and names glycolic acid and lactic acid as the most common AHAs in cosmetic products. According to the FDA, AHA products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. It adds that the extent depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH and the other ingredients in the product.

That last point matters when you compare products. An ingredient list shows whether glycolic acid is present, but our listings do not state its concentration or the formula's pH. Two products that both contain glycolic acid can differ. Our guide to reading ingredient lists explains what a list can and cannot tell you.

The two DDC products with glycolic acid

Details are from each product's current listing. Check the packaging for the most current ingredients and directions.

Glycolic acid and sunscreen

Sun sensitivity is the caution the FDA asks AHA cosmetic labels to carry. Its labeling guidance for cosmetics with AHAs recommends a "Sunburn Alert" explaining that the AHA "may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn." It goes on to recommend sunscreen, protective clothing and limited sun exposure while using the product and for a week afterward.

The FDA reports that in its studies this added sensitivity to UV light was reversible: one week after the AHA cream was stopped, researchers found no significant differences between skin sites. So sunscreen still matters on the mornings after an evening application, and for a week after your last use. Both DDC listings repeat this caution. The serum's listing says to use sunscreen, and Night Renewal Creme's directions call for a separate sunscreen during the day.

For the sunscreen itself, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant product with SPF 30 or higher. The AAD advises applying it about 15 minutes before going outdoors, using at least 1 teaspoon for the face, and reapplying every two hours and right after swimming or sweating. It also notes that skin is exposed to UV rays whenever you go outside, including on cloudy days and in winter.

Patch test, then start slowly

Both listings say to patch test before first use. The AAD's general method is to apply a product to a quarter-sized spot, such as the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow, twice daily for seven to 10 days, and to wash it off and stop using it if a reaction develops. With an exfoliating product, do not use it more often during the test than its own directions allow. The AAD also notes that some ingredients, including glycolic acid and retinol, can irritate skin, particularly sensitive skin.

After the test, introduce the product gradually, as both listings direct. Neither listing sets a fixed number of evenings per week. The serum's directions say to reduce frequency if dryness or irritation occurs, and the night cream's say to use it less often if dryness or irritation develops. Avoid eyes and broken or irritated skin, and stop use if irritation occurs. Our guide to introducing new skincare explains how to add one product at a time and keep simple notes.

How to fit it into an evening routine

The AAD recommends washing your face first, then applying any treatment, then moisturizer and/or sunscreen. With DDC products, a glycolic acid evening could look like this:

• Serum evening: cleanse with a gentle cleanser such as Hydrating Facial Cleanser and rinse with lukewarm water. Apply 2–3 drops of Glycolic Acid Serum, then a moisturizer without glycolic acid, such as Soothing Emulsion or Hyaluronic Moisturizer (which contains fragrance).
• Night Renewal Creme evening: cleanse, let skin dry, then apply the cream to the face and neck as the final step. Do not add Glycolic Acid Serum or a retinol product that evening.
• The next morning: finish with sunscreen, and keep using it for a week after your last glycolic acid evening.

Retinol products also belong on separate evenings. Collagen & Retinol Serum contains retinol, and its own listing says not to layer it with Glycolic Acid Serum, Night Renewal Creme or other exfoliating products in the same evening. Start with one active product at a time.

If you use prescription skin treatments, or are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your clinician before adding a glycolic acid product. For a side-by-side look at all DDC serums, see our serum comparison.

Before you order

DDC skincare includes free standard U.S. shipping, with estimated delivery in 8–14 business days from the date you order. You have 60 days from your order date to request a return; unopened products can be returned for a refund or exchange, while opened products can be returned only if they arrived damaged or defective. See shipping details and the return policy.

View Glycolic Acid Serum View Night Renewal Creme

Sources: FDA, Alpha Hydroxy Acids and labeling guidance for cosmetics containing AHAs; AAD, How to apply sunscreen, How to test skin care products at home and skin care application order; DirectDermaCare product listings. Reviewed October 27, 2026 for product-shopping information.